The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use."

The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it.

Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which describes a separate line of elevation.

1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (Fjäll), we first arrive at the line where the Spruce Fir, Pinus abies, ceases to grow. This tree had previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy object in these desolate forests! The Rubus arcticus had already, before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. With the Spruce we lose the Rosa cinnamomea, Convallaria bifolia, &c.; n and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of Arundo phragmites, Lysimachia thyrsiflora, Galim boreale, and Carex globularis. Here is the true station of Tussilago nivea (Wind. Sp. Pl. v.3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature is about 3 degrees of Celsius's thermometer (37.5 of Fahrenheit).

2. Scotch Firs (Pinus sylvestris) are still found, but not near so tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of Ledum palustre, Salix pentandra, Veronica serpyllifolia, &c. The bogs have already a very sterile appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows Phaca alpina. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the berries of Vaccinium myrtillus (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. Salmo lavaretus (the Gwiniad), and S. Thymallus (the Grayling), soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature about 2.5 degrees of Celsius (36.5 of Fahrenheit.) A little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual snow, Barley ceases to ripen but small farms, the occupiers of which live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips grow large enough to be worth cultivating.

3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is 2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much wider than the preceding. Long before its termination Alnus incana, Prunus padus, and Populus tremula, were no more to be seen. A little before the Birch ceases, we miss the Sorbus aucuparia (Pyrus aucuparia, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any fruit; the Rubus arcticus already likewise barren; Erica vulgaris, Aconitum lycoctonum, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. Here in many spots we find the vegetation of Sonchus alpinus, Struthiopteris, and Aconitum lycoctonum remarkably luxuriant. The drier spots now become covered with Lichen rangiferinus. Tussilago frigida and Pedicularis sceptrum-carolinum have their place to the utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Char (Salmo alpinus) is found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases.

4. All mountains above this limit are called Fjäll (Alps). Near rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a. little brush-wood, consisting of Salix glauca, whose grey hue affords but little ornament to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking Betula nana, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper bushes, and some plants of Salix hastata, are found scattered about. Every hill is covered with Arbutus alpina, variegated with Andromeda cærulea and Trientalis europæa. The more boggy ground is decorated with Andromeda polifolia in its greatest beauty, and Pedicularis lapponica. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has the greatest power, grow Veronica alpina, Viola biflora, Pteris crispa, and Angelica archangelica. This zone extends within 1400 feet of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (Mustela gulo) goes no higher than this. The berries of Rubus chamæmorus still ripen here, but not at a greater degree of elevation.

5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white Salix lanata is not above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and Salix myrsinites is of still more humble growth. Betula nana occupies the drier situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed with the rather brown than green Azalea procmubens and Azalea lapponica, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, produce Lychnis apetala, Erigeron uniflorum, Astragalus leontinus<96> and montanus, with Ophrys alpina. In boggy places Aira alpina, Carex ustulata, and Vaccinium uliginosum are observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of elevation, are those of Empetrum nigrum; but these are twice as large as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean temperature is about +1 degree of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).

6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as Empetrum nigrum, but destitute of berries, Andromeda tetragona and hypnoides, as well as Diapensia lapponica. Green precipices exposed to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of Gentiana tenella and nivalis, and Campanula uniflora, accompanied by the yellow Draba alpina. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no reflected heat, produce Pedicularis hirsuta and flammea, with Dryas octopetala. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow.

7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Kvikkjokk at the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are Saxifraga stellaris, rivularis and oppositifolia, Ranunculus nivalis and glacialis, Rumex digynus, Juncus curvatus<97> and Silene acaulis The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is +0.4 degrees of Celsius, (32.75 of Fahrenheit).

8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much diminished, that a few plants of Ranunculus glacialis, and other similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some umbilicated Lichens (Gyrophoræ), &c., still occur in the crevices of perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the mean temperature seems to be + 1.1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit)(sic). The Snow Bunting, Emberiza nivalis, is the only living being that visits this elevated spot.

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