September 17.

 I departed from the posthouse of Kemi. The weather was unfavourable, for it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the 202 EAST BOTTILAND. evening at the posthouse of J6Jö. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch, intermixed with the acifoliæ   acifoliæ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become pale, but the Sorbets Sorbus (Mountain ash, Pi Pyrus aucuparia, Fl. Brit.) had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (Pedicularis) Sceptrum Caroli& 'num appeared everywhere by the roadside. Thalictrum    (flavum) and Scutellaria (galericulata) were less frequent, but Golden-rod (Solidago Virga aurea), Trollius (europæus), (SpirceaSpiræa) Ulmaria, and Epilobium (palustre?) were plentiful, as was the sweet Milium (effusum), with the Gramen ramosum (probably Aira ccespitosacæspitosa.)

 The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke, and the EAST BOTTILAND. 203 tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious of warmth than careful of their eyesight.

 The same sort of plough is used here as at Kemi.

 I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand. Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately pinnate, (Pisum maritimum).

 Near Jo Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught, should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any further

 204   ÖSTERBOTTEN. The peasants of this upper part of Österbotten, children of darkness in their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in front.--.—Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected with a smell of sour fish, like sour &Straœmming, for they are kept very dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish.

 Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea Wheatgrass, (Elymus arenarius. See Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. n.34.)

September 18.

 I travelled from Jö to UlaborgOulu. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an inverted position, upon them, the EAST BOTLILAND. 205 whole was sheltered from wet. The barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round. On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put, as a kind of covering.

 The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already described.

206   . EAST BOTITLAND.

 (The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings, at which Linnæus was so indignant.)

 Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from, the shore, which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so firm as to serve for the con, struction of ovens. At one spot, where the river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement, which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of iron. The storms stones in_ general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron. Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest. EAST BOTIILAND• 207

A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of the boat is nearly semi-cylindrical, the keel being raised up, or hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places. Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may go in safety.

One sort of nets used for catching Sijk® fish, (Salmo Lavaretuslavaretus, or Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a 208  LAST BOTHLIND. considerable length, the meshes very smalls There are loop-holes at the top, large enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near the sandy shore.

 Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net, except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on EAST BOTHLAN-D.  209  each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never escape, but is taken out at leisure.

Near UlaborgOulu is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a small island, where there is a sawing-mill. In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made to the VOL. II. 210  ÖSTERBOTTEN. life. He is actually buried here <92> 4'. This church is one of the longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. UlaborgOulu is almost as large as Lund. 'If

John Messenius, famous for his learning and his misfortunes, was professor of law and politics at Up-sal, in the reign of the great Gustavus Adolphus, who had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all his wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and hatred of some of the colleagues of this able man, especially of John Rudbeck, a malignant though learned theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius to Stockholm, and made him a member of the new council established there. The latter was formally accused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic king Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual prison, where he composed a great work entitled Scandia illustrata, published at Stockholm between the years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son Arnold might be justified for detesting those who had persecuted his illustrious father, but not for the folly of expressing his feelings in satirical publications against people in power. For this he paid with his life on the scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, suffered with him. September 19.

After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters of the sketch.) I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Liminka, more spacious than all the meadow-ground of Tornio and Raibeck together. (Tuneld says in his Geography, that the meadows of Liminka, and cornfields of the neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with Horsetail (Equisetum fluviatile), and especially with Reed, Arundo (Phragmites), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a forest. The Water Hemlock, Cicutaria aquatica (Cicuta virosa,) was very plentiful by the roadside. This led me to inquire whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar particulars to what I had heard at Tornio.

Red Currants (Ribes rubrum) grew all the way by the road, as well as Lenticula (Lemna or Duckweed), and the Lichenoides of which powder is made was observable on the trees. (Lichen prunastri, said to have been used for hair-powder.)

The meadow of Liminka is two miles in length. The best part of the land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat impaired by tumps<93> (of Carex cæspitosa). If but a third part of it were cultivated, according to the Skånian mode of husbandry, it would be of more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss (Sphagnum palustre), which would render it altogether unprofitable.

About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (Iris Pseud'acorus) was mixed with the hay.

The milk strainers are made of straw, and not very clean.

September 20.

Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of Tornio, standing on a peninsula by the sea. In the hospital of Kronoby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them, whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the derangement.

About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called Hittatran, or Casual Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For after-pains they swallow, as at Kemi, a few drops of blood from the umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every subsequent one.

Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not more wonderful than many sympathies upon record.

There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called Muicu. Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Turku, says that he has seen at this place a fish named Muicu, which is no other than the Blikta, taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be I know not, but I saw plainly that this Muicu is the Small Sijk (Salmo albula), such as is found in Småland.

This figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them from the shoulders of the animal, and supports there.

September 21.

Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Kokkola. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at Kronoby.

I passed on to Jacobstad, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships are able to load and unload close to the quay.

September 22.

Leaving Jacobstad, I arrived at the town of Nykarleby, which is nearly as big as Växjö. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers, placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel.

The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley.

Rotkäl (Brassica oleracea χ, Sp. Pl. 932, Napo brassica, or Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given with the liquor to the cattle.

The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black ribbon in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the whip slung at their back.

To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) which is rolled between their hands.

In the evening of this day I arrived at Vaasa. September 23. I went to church at Vaasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings. This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the governor.

Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed, I do not indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit.

The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linnæus here meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.)

This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church. They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down.

September 24.

In my way from Nykarleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure.

The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it the upper leathers made of tanned sealskin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.)

Hypericum (perforatum), Scrophularia (nodosa), Bidens (cernua?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey. The three species of Ribes (rubrum, alpnum and nigrum,) were in prodigious abundance.

September 25.

At sun-rise I took my departure from Vaasa. The pines in the forest were stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its being . . . (here is a word not to be deciphered). The trees are left standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are left to rot on the ground.

Three miles below Vaasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (Solanum dulcamara). In the town itself I had noticed (Leonurus) Cardiaca, and Henbane (Hyoscyamus niger). Near the shore grew Salix oleæfolia with its berries, (Hippophaë rhamnoides). It is known by the name of Finnbær or Surbær, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse, attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather too acid.

September 26.

I passed Kristinestad, but before coming to that place, noticed at Närpes a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of Carex cæspitosa) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded almost over one another, and were overgrown by Polytrichum (Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their way to any food between the tumps.

In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears. These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree, Tilia europæa,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on all sides.

September 27.

This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood on a table, and its end being made so as to elide up and down, the wort is easily poured out.

Below the town of Kristinestad, I first found the Lathyrus viciæformis (L. palustris), and Water Cresses, (Sisymbrium nasturtium); also Campanula persicifolia and (Sedum) Telephium.

September 28.

I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from the Lappfjärd near Kristinestad, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the town of Umeå and Gräno. Near Merikarvia I first recognised the Acer (platanoides) and Filix fœmina ramosa (Aspidium Filix-foemina?)

The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the Ribes insipidum (alpinum), called by the inhabitants Degbaer, in the greatest abundance. (Viburnum) opulus and (Lonicera) xylosteum here first re-appeared after my long absence.

N.B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with blackish brown berries, may perhaps be the Xylosteum, as the colour of the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the Flora Suecica, be suspected that Linnæus had, in these two paragraphs, written by mistake Xylosteum for Periclymenum.)

The alpine Stone Bramble, Rubus saxatilis, was extremely plentiful; and the Cultivated Hop (Humulus lupulus), growing wild, afforded me great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round the Aspen trees (Populus tremula). Here also (Anemone) hepatica, and the Cracca with toothed wings (stipulæ) and striated flowers, (Vicia sylvatica,) as well as the Orobus vernus, once more greeted me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (Agrostis arundinacea,) grows copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head. The marshes abound with Iris (Pseudacorus) and with Cyperus (probably Scirpus maritimus). The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kemi lay so near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was frequently visible through the forests.

September 29.

I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day.

When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach.

The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the crows (Corvus cornix), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds seek the marshy country in the evening before it comes on.

Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion.

On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that of a bagnio in Småland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half naked.

Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, others reddish-purple.

In the evening I arrived at the town of Turku, which is as large as Örebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often burnt clown by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain the heat

September 30.

The Finnish liquor called Lura is prepared like other beer, except not being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence its purgative quality from the iron. Here I saw a flying squirrel (Sciurus volans) from Tavasthia.

The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal Mink. (This seems to be Viverra lutreola, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.)

A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands has taken notice.<13> It is older than that of Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, containing iron here and there, with small quantities of pyrites. The mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city.

The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together.

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